CSG 2018 BOK Domain 7 Day 1
Domain Seven: Cheese Assessment and Evaluation
Today we dive into Domain Seven – Cheese Assessment and Evaluation.
We will follow the same format laid out by the 2017 CSG Administrators for this Domain.
At its core this Domain is all about selling to the end user-customers in a retail setting, chefs in a restaurant, distributors, etc. The cheesemaker labors around the clock to provide a desirable food product appealing in taste and flavor. The affineur works to bring the cheeses to the proper palate profile requested by their customers. Distributor and Retail Buyers make decisions based on the preferences of their customers. The retail or restaurant customer expects to be provided with a food at its peak. It is the Cheese Professional’s obligation to make that happen. Cheese professionals should have the knowledge and ability to determine the product’s condition and quality (fresh, unsafe, deteriorating, under-matured etc.). This includes evaluation of the flavor and body and texture of the cheese as well as the appearance of the cheese.
This domain is intended to educate the participant in the basics of how to sensory evaluate cheese as well as to predict how the cheese will age in future weeks and months.
The evaluation and assessment of cheese is used by many cheese professionals, in many different circumstances, including
• Evaluation of cheese by producer prior to shipping
• Evaluation of cheese by retailer/distributor for inclusion in product line
• Evaluation of cheese upon receiving at distributor, retailer or restaurant
• Evaluation of cheese on cheese cart prior to service, in service, and after service
• Evaluation of cheese condition in cheese cases
• Evaluation of cheese for judging in competitions
We will continue the Domain discussion with the following topic postings:
-Introduction to Domain 7, Set up for and the process of Sensory Evaluation
▪ Effect of TEMPERATURE, CLEANLINESS, LIGHTING on CHEESE
ASSESSMENT
▪Determining proper tools for assessment (CDRs, irons, etc)
▪ Get Familiar with SPECIFIC CHEESE TYPES and STANDARDS prior to
Tasting
▪ Have a STANDARD VOCABULARY and SET GOALS prior to tasting
The Basics of Sensory Evaluation
Employing the Five Senses–Listen , Look , Smell, Touch, Taste
Common Defects to identify– Listen , Look , Smell, Touch, Taste
– Judging in Competition and Communicating Assessments
Domain 7 Day 1 Part 2 –Taken from postings done by the 2017 CSG
Day One – Set up for and the process of Sensory Evaluation
Cheeses will and should be assessed at each stage in the supply chain from producer to consumer. Generally, a producer will take samples from a specific make batch to determine the cheeses readiness for market release. Each producer sets their own timetable based of the type of cheese and its desired flavor profile.
A producer may manage their own ripening or may pass the product on to an affineur or a separate ripening facility.
The affineur will assess the product when received and will determine a ripening timetable based on discussion with the producer to determine the target flavor profile. Evaluations of batches are conducted at regular intervals to measure the progress towards that profile.
When the product is released into the distribution channel assessments focus more on marketability. Distribution is more intent on preservation and turnover. Buyers will have determined the suitability of the product for their market directly from the producers or affineurs through trade shows or facility visits. Their expectation is that distribution will deliver damaged, mistreated or abused product.
At the retail counter product is first assessed to determine the product has been treated well by distribution. When cut and placed out for sale the product is evaluated to make sure the flavor profile is what is expected. This also provides a baseline to evaluate its condition in the case over time.
▪ Effect of TEMPERATURE:
Proper temperature is important to consider when evaluating product at various points on the way towards market.
During ripening sampling should be done at the temperature the cave or ripening room is held at. Sampling at a high or lower temperature will interfere with the ripening process and give an inaccurate indication of the development of the product.
In Distribution, the temperature is regulated with the intent of slowing or suspending product development.
At Retail temperature is also regulated to prevent spoilage and pathogen growth. However, sampling should be conducted at a temperature at which the product will be consumed. This is usually at room temperature 20°C – 22.5° (68° to 72°F). At this temperature fats soften; alcohol and volatile esters are more readily given off enhancing taste and flavor.
Need for CLEANLINESS and GOOD LIGHTING:
Cleanliness of the sampling site is an absolute must. Not only is pathogenic contamination a concern but so is cross contamination of product. Moving from one product sampling to the next without proper cleaning risks getting an inaccurate indication of the condition of the product.
It is also extremely important to see what you are doing when sampling. Lighting should be bright enough to give adequate illumination of all surfaces. Strong lighting will allow for the identification of any visual defects, however slight, in rind or paste.
The sampling location should also be well ventilated but without strong air flows. A confined space will accumulate odors. Strong airflow will disperse them too quickly. Evaluating natural odors emanating from the product are important in assessing its condition.
*** CLEAN, WELL LIT and VENTILATED ***
PROPER TOOLS for assessment
Clip Board or Note book – necessary to record the evaluation details. Without keeping a record, the assessment may be pointless.
Cheese Iron – most used by producers and affineurs, rarely employed at distribution or retail. An iron will remove a coring of the wheels to determine its development. Usually one wheel of a make batch is selected to sample with an iron. It is presumed the entire make batch will be reflected in the ironed wheels.
Cutting boards – Some regulations require boards of plastic. Some cheese mongers prefer wooden board. In all cases, the boards need to be clean and sterilized prior to use.
Cheese knives – For cutting the wheels to reveal the paste and for cutting pieces to sample. They can range from large two-handled Gouda knives to Chef knives to open bladed cheese knives for soft or bloomy-rinded cheese.
Wire cheese cutters – These are useful when wheels need to be divided among a number of sampling stations as in Judging competitions.
PRIOR TO ASSESSMENT AND EVALUATING
It is important to research and know specifics about the CHEESE TYPES to be evaluated. It is also important to know the STANDARDS that apply to the cheeses. Identifying defects is hard to do if you don’t know what positive attributes a well produce cheese should have.
In order to adequately communicate the evaluation of a product you must have a shared list of descriptions. To be able to inform the end user of the condition of a particular cheese a STANDARD VOCABULARY is a must.
Finally, you must define what is to purpose of the sampling. It can be to check its readiness for release. It can be determining its development stage. It may be its condition in the retail case.
Deciding what to sample for will determine what procedures to use and what results you are after.
1. Origins of milk’s flora
2. Role of micro-organisms in cheese’s sensorial quality
3. Enzymes participating in cheese’s ageing
4. Glycolysis : sugars degradation
5. Proteolysis : proteins degradation
6. Lipolisis : fat degradation
7. Physiological perception of aromas during degustation
8. Aromatic profiles : example of « fruity ».
Keep an eye out for some of the key terms to know that were posted on the Domain 7 bullet point links on Day 1
Ivan Larcher Presentation:
file:///C:/Users/marce/Downloads/_Ivan%20Larcher%20Presentation.pdf
Zoe Brickley Presentation is only available at Facebook Cheese Study Group:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/776662035747840/
2007 Cheese Sensory Analysis Presentation at ACS Conference:
file:///C:/Users/marce/Downloads/DOmain%207%202007%20Conference%20Sensory%20Portal%20(1).pdf
Peggy Smith Presentation available at Cheese Study Group:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/776662035747840/
Sensory Evaluation of Dairy Products:
Click to access Sensory%20evaluation%20of%20dairy%20products.pdf
Domain 7–Day 3
Good Morning Cheese Study Group–Today we look further into the evaluation and assessment aspect of Domain 7 which naturally leads into a discussion of defects that might be found in cheeses.
PLEASE NOTE: There are two valuable links to use for further study at the bottom of this posting.
Taken from CSG 2017 Posting done by Allin Tallmadge ACS CCP
– Listen, Look, and Smell
Even before a wheel of cheese is open certain assessments are made. In the case of larger wheels of hard or firm cheese an experienced cheese maker or grader will ‘thump’ the wheel to determine whether there are internal defects. An off sound may indicate voids in the paste or uneven curing. Knowing the sound of a proper ‘thump’ is gained from testing hundreds of wheels and having a tuned ear. (YouTube example for Parmiganno or Emmantaler).
Looking is the primary step in assessing cheeses. For the Producer looking for visual defects is key. These give an indication of how the cheese will mature and develop it desired profile. Defects in rind develop will usually indicate something undesirable happening inside the cheese. In bloomy-rinded cheese that could be a slip-skin or inadequate mold development. In firmer cheeses the rind may be unyielding or cracked. Surface mold is normal. Orange, red and yellow spots on raw milk cheese rinds indicted a preferential environment for beneficial molds that enhance flavor. Evidence of mites may or not be desired but is clearly identified by sight.
Lastly, anything other than clean odors are considered a defect. Strong ammonia that doesn’t clear indicates spoilage in soft cheeses. Strong sour odors in washed rind cheese are off putting while ‘sweaty socks’ indicates great flavor in the paste. Firmer natural rind cheese present an earthiness when ready but dirty mustiness can indicate off flavors may be in the paste.
Listening, Looking, and smelling are the first steps in assessing the cheese before feeling and tasting.
Employing sound to identify readiness for market or defects.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AdlVtLZuotk
https://www.ams.usda.gov/…/Bulk_American_Cheese_Standard%5B…
Domain 7 – Day 4 Here is the assessment recap from an ACS call in 2014.
CHEESE ASSESSMENT & EVALUATION
– Principles of Sensory Analysis
o Review: 5 senses used for sensory analysis
Sight
Smell
Taste
Touch
Sound
o Sensory Analysis used to determine various characteristics of cheese
These characteristics are linked, so a textural characteristic will be determined by sight and touch; a flavor characteristic determined by smell, taste, and touch (or mouthfeel)
o Each characteristic depends on the ideal qualities of any given cheese
Each family has ideal qualities and possible defects
A cheese that carries certain characteristics could be ideal for certain cheeses but defects for others (i.e. eyes are good in some Swiss-type cheeses like Emmentaler, but may be considered a defect in a Gouda or Cheddar)
– Applying the Senses in Cheese Evaluation
o SIGHT: Used mainly for body or texture, color, and eye formation
BODY characteristics
• may indicate proper or improper curd knitting, moisture control, or proteolytic/lipolytic breakdown
• Creamy, curdy, open, smooth, eyes, firm, crumbly
COLOR characteristics
• may indicate proper or improper animal feed, curd knitting, or seasonal fluctuation of milk
• Acid-Cut (a color characteristic that is dull, lifeless, or “bleached,” which may imply issues with acid control), mottled, seamy (a color/textural characteristic that shows up as definitive curd lines or “seams,” implying lack of curd knitting or mechanical openings developed), unnatural, wavy
• Colors like white, ivory, butter yellow, golden, orange, flecked, ashed
EYE FORMATION
• can be ideal or a defect
• if meant to develop eyes, a lack thereof is a defect, while if not meant to develop eyes, their presence may indicate unwanted contamination from gas formers
• Blind (lack of eyes), irregular, overset (imbalanced), one-sided, uneven
APPEARANCE: Exterior Defects
• Exterior defects indicate age and ripeness based on textural, color and visual cutes; this will indicate flavor development, especially giving clues on overripeness
• RIND: Cracks in the rind, blemishes, unwanted mold growth, slipskin
• SHAPE: Flat or collapsed (uneven turning in affinage), bulging or bloating (unwanted gas formers develop cracks, fissures or eyes)
• TEXTURE: Overripe, excessively runny
APPEARANCE: Interior Defects
• Interior defects indicate age and ripeness based on textural, color and visual cues; this will indicate flavor development, especially giving clues on overripeness
• COLOR: Too light or too dark (unripe or overaged; also caused by excessive exposure to air)
• TEXTURE: Dry paste (overaged or exposed to air), over-liquified paste (overaged, excessive proteolysis)
o TOUCH/TEXTURE
OPENNESS: Interior Defects
• Excessive mechanical openings indicate the overproduct of gases in the paste
• for cheeses with a desired open texture (Emmentaler, Jarlsberg) this is not a defect, but in other cheeses this may indicate cross-contamination in animal feed or production facilities
• openness may also indicate improper curd knitting, too little pressing, or improper acid and temperature controls
OTHER TEXTURAL DEFECTS
• Brittle, greasy, gummy, lumpy, mealy, spongy
o SMELL/ODOR
Smell is closely linked to flavor through the retronasal effect, which allows volatile scent compounds to hit the back of our throats and flow back up to our taste buds
Many odors come from volatile compounds that can be helpful or, more often, result in odor and flavor defects (i.e. sulfur, methyl ketones or “cowy” odor/flavor)
o TASTE/FLAVOR
FLAVOR characteristics
• can be ideal or a defect
• based on five taste buds: sour, salty, sweet, bitter, umami; various compounds relate to each
o Sour is acidity, such as lactic acid
o Salty is from salts, sodium chloride or mineral salts
o Sweet, bitter and umami come from the break down of proteins into peptides and further into amino acids; common compounds such as butyric acid (like body odors), diacetyl (buttery) or methanethiol (cabbage or other cruciferous vegetables)
• most often related to too little or too much of certain flavor characteristics, or to issues in the development and aging of the cheese (i.e. excessive free fatty acid development;
• Acid (too much or too little), barnyard, bitter, rancid, malty, metallic, sour, yeasty
• Flavor and texture are linked in the mouth with mouthfeel, a combination of how something taste with how it feels in the mouth
o SOUND
Sound in sensory analysis comes mainly from thumping large wheels of cheese as they age, i.e. Emmentaler, Gruyere, Comte, Parmigiano Reggiano
The sound of a wheel of cheese will determine its interior texture, especially if it has developed unwanted openings in the paste; affineurs can also tell ripeness from thumping the wheels
– Sensory Analysis Environment
o In order to properly assess cheese, conditions must be ideal:
Proper lighting, ventilation, temperature
Proper handling practices
Proper sanitation practices
Tools & Equipment, i.e. triers, knives, Natamycin spray to prevent mold growth
An understanding of the standards by cheese type in order to determine positive qualities and defects
– REVIEW: Defects by Family
o Desireable Traits: Aroma & Flavor, Texture, Appearance
o Defects: Aroma & Flavor, Texture, Appearance
– Origin of Defects
o Milk
Composition: Chemical properties of milk used for cheesemaking; can change with seasonality, breed
Quality: Animal feed, dairy farm and environment, packaging (i.e. cardboard taste from packaging containers)
o Production
Improper Moisture Content (too little syneresis, not enough heat, not enough stirring, not enough pressing)
Improper Acid Development (excess acid -> too short texture or not enough curd knitting; too little acid -> flabby flavor, potential pathogen growth)
Calcium Phosphate (too little “glue” can keep curds from knitting and forming a strong protein-fat structure)
Proteolysis & Lipolysis (too little or too much can cause lack of flavor or textural development, or excessive flavor and overripening)
Microbiological Contaminations (growth of gas formers, pathogens and indicator organisms can create mechanical openings, blowing, improper eye development; yeasts and molds can grow on the wrong type of cheese and create flavor and odor defects)
o Distribution & Storage
Shipping (without proper refrigeration or packaging, cheese can develop defects at final destination)
Packaging (too little packaging can cause textural issues, and foreign materials can create hazards)
Storage (improper refrigeration can create textural and flavor defects; squishing or contamination can happen at any point in the chain)
Requirements for Sensory Evaluation of Cheese:
http://dairy-technology.blogspot.com/2014/01/requirements-for-sensory-evaluation.html
Marcella the Cheesemonger Bullet Points for Cheese Assessment and Evaluation:
ACS BODY OF KNOWLEDGE – DOMAIN SEVEN – CHEESE ASSESSMENT AND EVALUATION – BULLET POINTS
John Greeley, David Grotenstein and Stephanie Clark Presentation – ACS 2011:
file:///C:/Users/marce/Downloads/_JC-Tutorial-Clark-Greeley%20%20(1).pdf
Foodbourne Pathogens by Lloyd Luedecke:
file:///C:/Users/marce/Downloads/_JC-Tutorial-Clark-Greeley%20%20(1).pdf
CFR Standards for Cheese Styles:
file:///C:/Users/marce/Downloads/9%20CFR%20Standards%20Chart%20(1).pdf
2013 Marc Druart Mold Presentation for Whole Foods:
file:///C:/Users/marce/Downloads/_Molds%20webinar%20April%202013%20Part%201%20(1).pdf
Pink Discoloration in Cheese:
http://phys.org/news/2016-06-scientists-pink-discolouration-defects-cheese.html
Sensory Evaluation in Cheese – Who Should be the Judge:
file:///C:/Users/marce/Downloads/Sensory%20Evaluation%20of%20Cheese_Who%20Should%20Be%20the%20Judge%20(Bodyfelt)%20(1).pdf
ACS Body of Knowledge – Domain Seven – Cheese Assessment and Evaluation
Domain Seven: Cheese Assessment and Evaluation – Copyright American Cheese Society
GENERAL OVERVIEW
Cheese professionals should have the knowledge and ability to determine the product’s condition and quality (fresh, unsafe, deteriorating, under-matured etc.). This includes evaluation of the flavor and body and texture of the cheese as well as the appearance of the cheese.
This domain is intended to educate the participant in the basics of how to sensory evaluate cheese as well as to predict how the cheese will age in future weeks and months.
The evaluation and assessment of cheese is used by many cheese professionals, in many different circumstances, including
- Evaluation of cheese by producer prior to shipping
- Evaluation of cheese by retailer/distributor for inclusion in product line
- Evaluation of cheese upon receiving at distributor, retailer or restaurant
- Evaluation of cheese on cheese cart prior to service, in service, and after service
- Evaluation of cheese condition in cheese cases
- Evaluation of cheese for judging in competitions
SETUP
- EFFECT OF TEMPERATURE, CLEANLINESS, LIGHTING ON CHEESE ASSESSMENT
- Determining proper tools for assessment (CDRs, irons, etc)
- FAMILIARIZING ONESELF WITH SPECIFIC CHEESE TYPES AND STANDARDS PRIOR TO TASTING
- Code of Federal Regulations Title 21 Subpart B: Requirements for Speicifc Standardized Cheese and Related Productshttp://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?CFRPart=133
- STANDARDIZING VOCABULARY AND SETTING GOALS PRIOR TO TASTING
- ACS presentation in Montreal (2011) by Christine Chenard
LISTEN
- ISOLATING DEFECT DEVELOPMENTS THROUGH AUDITORY CUES
LOOK
- ASSESSING PACKAGING AND EXTERIOR FOR DAMAGE AND DEFECTS
- Table of visual rind defects with level of severity and risk
- Visual cues for spoilage yeasts: http://www.dairyforall.com/cheese-microbial-defects.php
- UNDERSTANDING WHAT PASTE COLOR TELLS YOU ABOUT HOW A CHEESE WAS MADE
- INTERPRETING EYES, HOLES, FISSURES AND CRACKS IN THE PASTE OF CHEESES
SMELL – IDENTIFYING SPECIFIC AROMAS AND FLAVORS, THEIR CAUSES AND ORIGINS IN CHEESE
TOUCH- FEELING AND INTERPRETING CAUSES OF TEXTURE IN CHEESE
- GENERAL
- Table of textures in various cheese types and their potential causes
- IDENTIFYING CAUSES OF TEXTURE AND IRREGULARITIES IN CHEESE
TASTE – IDENTIFYING FLAVORS IN CHEESE AND UNDERSTANDING WHAT THEY MEAN
- GENERAL
- Umami in cheese http://www.umamiinfo.com/2011/03/umami-in-cheese.php
- ISOLATING FLAVORS CAUSED BY DEFECTS
- ISOLATING TYPES OF CRYSTALS
CHEESE SPECIFIC EVALUATION GUIDELINES
- CHEDDAR TASTING TERMINOLOGY AND EXPLANATION
- Dairy Industry Technology Review. “Sensory Evaluation of Dairy Products”. Innovations in Dairy: October, 2005. http://www.innovatewithdairy.com/SiteCollectionDocuments/DMI2262SensoryBulletin.pdf
- PARMIGIANO REGGIANO ELEMENTS OF SENSORY ANALYSIS.
- http://www.parmigianoreggiano.com/taste/sensory_analysis/default.asp
In addition to being an American Cheese Society Certified Cheese Professional, I am a Certified ServSafe Food Production Manager with certifications that also include ServSafe Certified Instructor and Proctor. I am available for cheese events, cheese program development, cheese training, food safety training and 3rd party food safety auditing. See my About Me and Resume pages for more details or call me at 360 921 9908 to discuss availability.
Follow me on:
You must be logged in to post a comment.