It’s hard to believe I’ve never written an article about Taleggio, my first washed rind cheese aka “Stinky Cheese”. However, my beloved Spaulding Gray aka The Feline Foodie did review Taleggio back in his heyday in 2009. I read his review before beginning this one of my own… he was one smart cat… RIP little guy… miss you everyday…
Back in 2008 when I began my cheese journey, I freely admit I knew little about specialty cheese. When I caught my first whiff of Taleggio, I thought “how can anyone eat something that smells this disgusting?” Funny how over time, I’ve come close to falling in love with the aromas of washed rind cheeses (the operative word in this sentence is “close”). In classes I teach, I always explain that once you get past the smell… or the bark of the washed rind cheese is worse than its bite, it’s amazing how different the taste of this class of cheeses is from the aroma.
On a science level, these cheeses are washed with various brines, usually a salt brine but many cheesemakers use beer, wine, liquers and other more exotic brines. The purpose of the wash is to kill unwanted bacteria that might grow and spoil the cheese. In doing this, a bacteria, Brevibacterium linens aka b. linens, grows and protects the cheese, creating the earthy aroma and contributing to the apricot hue of the rind.
Taleggio is another of the lovely cheeses Adam and Ashley sent me as a thank you for my contributions to the January Cheesemonger Invitational. Sometimes good deeds do go unpunished. Adam, don’t you agree?
Taleggio is an Italian Protected cheese (D.O.P.) made in the Lombardy region. Back in the day, Taleggio was made only in the fall from the protein and fat-rich milk of the same cows whose milk made Fontina Val d’Aosta during the summer months. These cows traveled up the Alps in early summer grazing in the Alpine pastures and by late summer they came down from the mountains, worn out from their travels (this summer journey is known as transhumance – if you’re studying for the CCP exam, you can bet this will be covered by a question). Tired and ready for a restful fall. And that is why Taleggio was traditionally made from “tired milk”. The Italian term is “Stracco”.
Once you get past the smell, the cheese is mild and sweet with a tangy finish. The paste is soft and at room temperature, spreadable. On a freshly baked baguette, it’s sublime. When we tasted it at Blue Haven Bee, we paired it with two of Kelly’s Jelly: Tayberry and Pineapple Jalapeno.
My good friend and fellow ACS CCP, Allin Tallmadge wrote a detailed historical look at Taleggio last year during our Cheese of the Day project. You can read more about this cheese, which should be a part of every respectable specialty cheese counter and shop.
The Facebook Cheese Study group is again raising funds to send cheese professionals to sit for the 2018 ACS CCP exam and attend the ACS COnference in Pittsburgh. You can get all the details here and donate to our fund here.
Finally, our Facebook Cheese Study Group will be offering Mentorships for those taking the Cheese Industry Exam this July in Pittsburgh. We’re looking for CCPs to serve as mentors to make the 2018 the most successful class ever. Please check out details here.
I dedicate this review to Adam Jay Moskowitz whose tolerance of those with different political beliefs is indeed an example for all. Love you, Adam!!! Smooches!!!
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